Le Courdon Bleu
The Tea Party
I'm standing in the restaurant of the Mandeville Hotel before a table which looks like it’s fallen from a dream. Such a thing of ornate beauty doesn’t seem to belong to my prosaic world of late trains, burnt toast and April showers. The table is loaded with every single delicious cake imaginable, and many of which I’ve never laid eyes on before. Every colour in the rainbow has sent an ambassador; delicate detailed morsels which you know at a glance have been painstakingly prepared individually. If these taste even a fraction of as good as they look, then I’m not so much in for a treat as for an out-of-body experience. Hovering nearby with her eyes fixed on the entrance from the kitchens is Julie Walsh, one of Le Cordon Bleu’s Master Chefs and teacher. Earlier, before the first guests had started arriving, the atmosphere was one of frantic calm before a huge storm. Now however, it’s one of English civility and relaxed celebration.
This is Le Cordon Bleu ‘Tea Party’, a chance for her students from various Pâtisserie courses, including the highest ‘Superior’ grade to put their skills to the test. For some of these students, it’s even been an exam! No pressure then. Centre stage and orchestrating the scene, Chef Julie is an impressive figure. I’ve been told she’s trained over 8,000 students, many of whom are now working at top Michelin Starred restaurants around the world. With slight trepidation I inquire whether her students were nervous about the big day. ‘Do they look nervous to you?’ she responds casually. All the while we’re talking she checks that the fresh Pâtisserie is in perfect condition to be served to the guests.
Returning to the journalists table, I seat myself with the BBC Good Food and Bella Magazine writers who are far more engaged with eating cake to talk to me. Following in their example, I join them and start off with a Parisiens; crisp almond meringue layered with praline buttercream. It tastes like hope, joy and jubilation, and is extremely light and airy. If I close my eyes I could almost be in Paris. Scones and loose-leaf teas arrive, all served by the same chefs responsible for this feast. The Strawberry and Champagne Mousse is divine, but my personal favourite has to be the Prince Noir; four intricate layers of chocolate mousse, hiding whole brandy soaked cherries on a ‘crisp Feuilletine layer.’ I have absolutely no idea what that means, but this is an unforgettable experience.
What makes Le Cordon Bleu Tea Party different from any other high tea is that the chefs are all on hand, eager to explain their craft, advise you on which cakes to try and tell you about their grand ambitions. One of these chefs is psychology graduate Naqiyah Rangwala who shows me through the menu and tells me a little about each item. Chefs, she tells me, are always ‘behind the scenes’ so to get to see her patron’s enjoyment and reactions is quite unusual.
When I ask her about her plans for the future she talks freely and with enthusiasm. ‘I can’t cook but when it comes to baking I can do anything! Studying at Le Cordon Bleu makes you look at food in a different way; you inspect it, you feel it – when I get a piece of bread I break it open to look inside.’ Is the recession bothering her? ‘The food industry is always growing and I want to be a Head Pastry Chef one day. Everyone loves desserts!’
Le Cordon Bleu Tea Party takes place at the Mandeville Hotel in London, twice per term. To reserve a place call 0207 935 5599. Cost £15 per head and they’ll even give you a doggie bag to take home if you ask nicely. Best value in the capital by far.
